Dr. Jeffrey Asher

Dr. Jeffrey Asher is a Mechanical Engineer who, after 21 years, retired in 2008 from being Consumer Reports as their Vice-President and Technical Director.

Since 1936, Consumer Reports has developed a worldwide reputation as an expert, independent, nonprofit organization whose mission is to “work for a fair, just, and safe marketplace for all consumers.”

At Consumer Reports, he was responsible for the leadership and management of over 150 staff members who annually tested thousands of consumer products. Dr. Asher was responsible for all consumer-product testing including the evaluation of the cars and trucks rated at the organization’s 327-acre auto test facility in East Haddam, Connecticut. This is the largest, independent consumer automobile testing center in the world.

During his tenure at Consumer Reports (CR), he expanded CR’s safety mission through its testing of items like condoms, fresh chicken, food irradiation and child safety car seats. In addition, he accelerated significantly the pace of testing and the volume of product models tested in order to efficiently feed their website, ConsumerReports.org to ensure that more than 3.1 million subscribers can receive timely information.

Previous to his career at Consumer Reports, he had been a manager and fluid mechanics researcher at General Electric’s Research Center. He graduated from Syracuse University with a Bachelors, Masters and Ph.D. in Mechanical Engineering.

Getting Your Dishes Cleaned

There is big news on the dishwashing detergent front. While previous detergents had 8.5 percent phosphate levels, new detergent models have been reformulated and are now down to 0.5% or less. This will help our environment where phosphates in our wastewater have led to serious problems of algae growth in our fresh water.

The good news is that some of these low-phosphate detergents did a very good job in cleaning dishes. (Previous attempts by the industry to market low-phosphate formulations failed to produce clean enough dishes.)

In the most recent September 2010 issue of Consumer Reports (CR), their detergent ratings changed considerably since the last time tested. This time, the CR Best Buy turned out to be the “Finish Powerball Tab.” Topping the Ratings was a more expensive brand mate, “Finish Quantum Tablets.” Cascade brand models “Complete All in 1 Pacs” and “With Dawn ActionPacs” were also recommended.

I bought a 20 tablet package of the Finish “Powerball Tabs” at a local supermarket for $4.39. It is astounding to see how many dishwasher detergent products there are on the supermarket shelves these days. So, be careful that you get the exact model you are looking for.

This is especially true since you should not buy by brand. For instance, another Finish brand mate, their “Gel” finished last in the ratings. And according to CR, the Finish’s “… Quantumatic isn’t worth its price.”

Another buying tip, generally, “Gels” did poorly and “Tablets” did well.

CR Testing Tidbit: Ever wonder how CR tests dishwashing detergents? Well, it is one of the most laborious series of tests they do. First, they mix up a “monster-mash” of 17 foods and bake them onto plates. Then, they load these dishes along with glasses and silverware into a series of calibrated dishwashers. Each detergent under evaluation is run in these machines multiple times. Finally, each item of silverware, plate and glass is inspected by a technician to grade for any soil remaining. This is a job for a very special and patient person.

Some money saving dishwasher tips:

Don’t pre-wash your dishes. It wastes water and the best detergents will get the job done fine without it.

Run your dishwasher with a full load to save energy and water.

Modern dishwashers heat the water to the appropriate temperature and you can save energy if you keep your water heater at 120 F.

One maxim I learned while at CR was that even an older dishwasher can do fine if you use better detergents. So, even if your dishwasher is on its last leg, go out and buy the best detergent to see if you can keep it going for a few more years.

Buying a Digital Camera

It is hard these days not to see digital cameras in the hands of everyone from the very young to seniors. On the other hand, film cameras have almost completely disappeared as has the availability of film and film processing.

There is a reason for this revolution. Digital cameras now can be found in a wide range of prices from under $100 to over $2,000 for the Pro models. Downloading their images has never been easier and inexpensive to distribute to family and friends over the Internet. While only a small percentage of pictures ever are printed, this can now be “processed”—downloaded from the camera, edited, printed and stored—at home without a darkroom.

Even if you are not in the market for a new digital camera, at the end of this article there are tips that may make it less expensive and easier to use your camera. But first there is the decision about which type of camera to buy:

SubCompacts—These take good to very good quality photos and are easy to tuck into your pocket. Better quality offerings are in the price range from $100 to $350+.

Compacts—These also take good to very good photos, but are bigger (size and weight). They have more features and are good values at a somewhat higher price (approximately $300).

Super Zooms—These cameras have larger telephoto ranges (up to x26 zoom), but remain relatively small in size. They also take good to very good photos and are in a higher price range to $400+.

Single Lens Reflex (SLR)—These cameras provide very good to excellent photos, but at a price. Their cost is high ($500 to $2000+) and they are much larger and heavier. SLR’s are full-featured and, thus, are more complex to use. These are best for non-casual photographers.

In making a model choice, price may not be a good indicator of overall quality. Photo resolution of 10+ megapixels likely will produce good to very good photo quality, although megapixels are now more of a marketing tool and more does not necessarily buy better quality pictures. Check your camera’s storage cards to see if you can use them in the new model. Does the camera have an LCD screen of decent size? Does it also have a viewfinder? I like having both.

Try buying a camera with SD type memory since they are often on sale. Check out the specification for the “Next Shot Delay.” Under 1 second, is excellent. Longer delays can cause problems when you are taking a quick series of photos. The flash range should be at least 10 feet. Finally, the number of shots per battery charge should be at least 250.

Other factors include:

When to purchase? Biggest sales are: June (Graduations); Friday after Thanksgiving; Christmas Holiday and Valentine’s Day. New models arrive in the Spring.

Buy in a store or on-line? You can get great deals on-line. One website I use is Buydig.com.

Extended Warranty? It may be worth consideration for only an SLR. But based on CR survey, payback is unlikely for any warranty. Watch the small print if you buy one.

Model Choices: Next, you need to choose the camera brand.Consumer Reports’ (CR) reliability data show there is no major differences brand-to-brand. CR has results of their evaluation for 85 cameras—72 for Non-SLR’s and 13 for SLR’s. Models of most major brands—Panasonic, Canon, Casio, Sony, Nikon, Pentax and Olympus—are intermingled at the top 25% of the ratings and each could be a good choice depending on the money you want to spend and specific features your are seeking.

In the most recent Consumer Reports (CR) tests of subcompact cameras, two are particularly worthy of consideration even though they are a bit over your $200 price point. They are one-two in the CR ratings: Nikon Coolpix S8000 ($300) and the Canon Powershot SD1400 IS ($230). These subcompacts have very good image quality--unusual for cameras of this size and price. They also start up and take pictures rapidly. The Nikon has a large10X zoom while the Canon a more normal 4X. Another important feature for both of these cameras is their flash performance and low light capability. User reviews are highly complementary about both cameras.

If these two cameras are too pricey, you might want to choose the Nikon Coolpix L21 ($100). This camera has a slightly lower rating due to its video quality and image stabilizer being rated as fair. It also does not have as wide angle lens as the others.

Personal Experience: Several months ago, I bought a new “Super Zoom” Panasonic FZ35 Digital Camera. This camera was to replace a subcompact with a 4X zoom that I had been quite satisfied. I decided to buy the Panasonic with a much larger, X18 zoom range. Of course, you can forget taking it out of a shirt pocket since it was significantly larger and heavier.

Nonetheless, this Panasonic has been a big success. (It is still being sold for less than $400, but likely will be replaced shortly in the marketplace. Consumer Reports has tested a new Super Zoom, Nikon model P100 ($400) with 26X zoom that now deserves a look.)

With my new Panasonic Super Zoom, I have been able to take telephotos that are truly remarkable for such an inexpensive camera. (I take my own advice and use a tripod when at an extended zoom.) What I have found is that buying a bigger camera has not meant leaving my beloved subcompact (a Canon) at home. Rather, I have both at the ready—the Canon subcompact for the quick shots and the Super Zoom Panasonic where I want better image quality especially where the subject is far away.

Bottom line: If you enjoy being an amateur photographer on-the-cheap like me, think about upgrading from your subcompact to a Super Zoom. But, on your big adventures keep them both at the ready so you do not miss that unforgettable moment!

Some Camera Tips: Now that you have bought the digital camera, here are some money-saving tips that I have found in their use:

Google offers free Picasa 3 software which is excellent for editing and storing photos.

As usual, CR believes you will not get sufficient payback on an Extended Warranty, so say “No” when asked.

Buy a second battery and switch between them before they completely discharge. A carrying case is handy to protect your new investment.

Buy several of these memory cards in one to four gigabytes sizes. Use several cards during an important photo shoot. Before you forget, download your photos from the camera to your computer when you get home.

If your camera is slow to fire the next shot, it may be because your battery is low and recharging the flash is slowing things down. The remedy is to shut off the flash.

Even with image stabilization, you might need a tripod for x12 or above telephoto picture.

Buying an iPad

It has been hard to pick up a newspaper or see TV without reading about Apple’s new iPad. As a long term iPhone user, this new device has really intrigued me. Intrigued enough to run out and buy it? No way! But, mark my words, as the time passes, it is becoming more clear that the iPad and its “tablet” imitators are here to stay. The iPad has already become Apple’s new, big product.

The reason for my reluctance for buying now is that I am sure it will be changing for the better to something much more usable and likely at a comparable price in the next 6 months.

So what is it? The iPad is best described as Amazon’s Kindle e-book reader on steroids. Even now, it leaves the Kindle in the dust since it can do so much more and in glorious COLOR! Color will become the name of the game for e-Book readers and Apple has gotten there first. The Kindle versus the iPad is literally like going from a black-and-white TV to color. And, think of the impact that color has for magazines, movies, games and the web.

Most important, the iPad has connectivity with Apple’s Apps library. There are 1000’s of apps now and the number is growing daily. If you ever have been an iPhone user, you know how terrific it has been to tap into so many interesting and inexpensive Apps. Whether you are interested in games (Scrabble anyone?) or utilities like GPS, the iPad will be the place to use them on a much larger screen.

The iPad has the feel of the iPhone, but is much larger in size coming in at 7.5 by 9.6 inches, a half inch deep and weighing 1.5 lbs. So much larger that reviewers are saying you will want a cradle ($29) for reading long term and a case ($39) for carry it. Like the iPhone, the iPad is able to respond to emails, schedule your meetings, and easily synch through your computer to iTunes.

You can buy one today for $499 for 16 GB, $599 for 32 GB or $699 for 64 GB. (Based on my experience with the iPhone, you might want to opt for at least the 32 GB model to have more room for Apps, photos and all that other stuff too important to erase.)

You can connect to the Internet without a WiFi hookup or pay an additional $130 for the enhanced iPad plus a monthly payment of $15 (250mb) or $50 (unlimited) for only AT&T’s 3G data service. (This data service cannot be used as a cell phone.)

So why wait? Well, in my opinion, Apple has sent the iPad to market a bit early. My “missing iPad essentials” includes: a cell phone, a still- and video-camera. None of these options are even slated—time or extra cost—for the next iPad at this point.

Last on my “missing” list is “Multi-tasking.” Think what it would be like if you had a computer where you had to close out of email before connecting with your Internet connection? While the iPhone now has this feature, the iPad still does not. This is a serious drawback since the iPad quickly becomes a laptop substitute in your life. The iPad and the new iPhone share the same operating system so multitasking should soon come to the iPad as a simple and no cost software upgrade.

The main concern for iPad’s future is whether it will be able to take on enough functions to replace other electronics that are dear to us now. The recent market failure of Netbook computers is a case in point.

For instance, will it replace our laptops around the house? (Probably not.) Will it replace the cell phone? (Definitely not.) Will it become our next magazine or newspaper? (Probably.) Will it be the single device you use when you want to quickly get on the web or see if an email came or play a game while waiting for dinner to be ready? (Absolutely!) Personally, I believe that iPad is a game changer.

Apple is very secretive about its technology upgrades so you will likely not know for certain when an iPad possessing these missing features will be available. My take is to wait a bit more before buying an iPad.

And if you were good, you can ask Santa for a special iPad gift this holiday season. Or better yet, ask for an Apple gift certificate so you can buy an iPad soon after its next upgrade arrives.

Getting a Break on Buying Home Replacement Windows

This may be the right time to replace your windows since the Government is offering 2010 energy tax credits. It also may be a smart way to save money by using less energy especially if you currently have single-pane window glass. In these situations, replacement windows can save you between 10 and 25 percent per year on heating and cooling.

Consumer Reports (CR) studies indicate that an average house may cost $7,000 and $20,000 for window replacement and the energy savings may take 20 years or more to pay off this cost. But in the meantime, your home will be more comfortable, quiet, and attractive.

Energy-efficient replacement window now use heat-reflecting, low-E coatings and argon gas between glass panes. CR tested 19 replacement windows for air and water leakage, durability, and convenience.

Wood and fiberglass windows excelled at keeping out cold air and rain when new. After going through a week of extreme temperature swings, the best models retained excellent resistance to the wind and rain. The Pella Pro Line ($215 per window) and the Anderson 200 ($235) were highlighted as CR Best Buys. A fiberglass model, the Pella Impervia ($255) was also a CR Best Buy.
The less expensive, maintenance-free, vinyl windows tended to leak air a bit more in cold climates. When it comes to appearance, vinyl cannot be painted or stained so it might not be appropriate for older homes. Here, the two best buys were Lowes’ Survivor Reliabilit 5600 ($180) and Home Depot’s American Craftsman 9500 ($220). These models generally were somewhat less resistant to wind and rain after the extreme temperature testing.

Some manufacturers like Andersen, Marvin, and Pella recommend installers who are specifically trained on their products. According to CR readers, they were more satisfied overall with the manufacturer installing the windows rather than those who used contractors employed by or recommended by Home Depot or Lowe's.

The Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency is 30% for the total cost of the hardware up to $5,000. Installation is not counted for this credit. These credits expire on December 31, 2010 and can also be applied to insulation, heating and cooling systems, storm windows, doors and skylights.

Thus, there are good models of each type—wood and vinyl— that will give you good energy-saving performance. The deal breaker may be how the windows will look long term since vinyl cannot be painted. With the Government 30% credit, perhaps the biggest financial consideration is not the initial cost , but rather the expense of repainting the wood windows every five years or so. Unless, of course, you enjoy home painting!

Cold Water Laundry Detergents

The folks at Consumer Reports (CR) recently reported on one of these detergents.

“Tide 2X Ultra for Cold Water” at 23 cents per load was at the top of the pack for use in a conventional top-loader. This concentrated, liquid detergent not only does a good job cleaning clothes, but it promises to save you about $60 per year in energy costs.

(Make sure you buy the “2X” Tide since its non-concentrated brother model was far down the Ratings.)

If you have one of the new High Efficiency (HE) Top- or Front-loaders, there is a Tide 2X Ultra with Color Clean Bleach Alternative HE” that also tops the Ratings, but will not be effective cleaning in cold water.

CR Testing Tidbit: CR’s testing for cleaning is highly scientific and expensive. Soil cloths are bought from an outside vendor in Europe. These cloths were specially created for the cleaning industry to evaluate a variety of stains—wine, grass, sedum (dirt), etc. These cloths are systematically washed in identical washers. Then, each is inspected by technicians to develop a “cleanability” score for each of the detergents.

Life-Saving Home Alarms

On Sunday, November 7 we “fell back” one hour to end Daylight Savings Time. Why give this warning?

Well, this switch is also a good time to put new batteries in your home’s fire and carbon monoxide alarms. Even though I know you have been checking them monthly as the instructions say, you might want to press the test button after inserting a fresh battery.

Time flies when you are trying to protect your home. This being true, you should replace your CO detectors every 5 years and a fire alarm every 10. So, this time of year may be a good time to remember when you bought your home alarms and whether changing the alarm is warranted rather than just their batteries.

Smoke alarms come in two “flavors” to detect either 1) fire (ionization-type) or 2) smoke (photoelectric-type). Since you do not know ahead of time which type of fire you will have, I strongly suggest that you buy the “Dual-sensor type” which can detect both fire and smoke. In the tests by Consumer Reports (CR) throughout the years, these types of alarms are far superior then the types that are able to singularly detect fire or smoke.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors or alarms sense the build-up of CO gas. CO gas is an odorless, colorless gas that can accumulate to deadly levels when a fuel-burning appliances—your furnace, fireplace, gas-fired water heater or a kerosene heater—is not functioning correctly.

The really good news is that the cost of buying a fire or CO alarm has come down significantly over the last five years. If you have a choice, buy an alarm that can be “interconnected.” This means that if one alarm in the house senses a fire or a high CO level, they all alarm.

The best dual sensor fire alarms are: Kidde P12000 ($30; a CR Best Buy), the First Alert SA302CN ($25) and the Kidde P19000 ($23). If these alarms can be bought as “interconnected” models, you should buy that one although it will likely cost more.

Recently, while in Home Depot I noticed a two-pack, dual-sensor alarm with the brand called “Universal Security Instruments.” This is their Platinum Model and the two-pack sells for only $20. And, while CR did not test this brand back in November 2009, these alarms may be worth buying since they were given the UL seal.

For the Carbon Monoxide (CO) alarms, The CR Best Buy for interconnected models is the First Alert OneLink SCO501CN ($70) or its brand mate the CO511B ($85). (A standalone, non-interconnected model is the First Alert CO615 [$40] or its brand mate the CO410 [$40].)

The next question is where to place these alarms. As a rule, fire alarms should be installed on the ceiling or on a wall no more than 12 inches below the ceiling and away from corners, windows, and vents.

For the basement, the fire alarm should be near the stairwell leading upstairs. The CO alarm should be at least 20 feet from a furnace, water heater, or other fuel-burning appliances.

In the kitchen or living areas, the fire alarm should be 10 feet away from—but not inside—the kitchen. Another fire alarm and a CO alarm should be in the living area. (If your home has more than 1,000 square feet per level, your local building code might require a second fire alarm.)

There should be a fire alarm in each bedroom and in the hallway. Also, place a separate CO alarm in the hallway.

Never put a CO alarm inside the garage, where car exhaust can trigger false alarms. Also don't put CO alarms near any windows in your house, where fresh air can have the opposite effect. And, even if your attic isn't finished, install a fire alarm.

Some tips:

Read the manufacturer's instructions and note down when you bought the alarm. (Newer alarms have dates stamped inside the housing to indicate when to replace the alarm.)
Create a family escape plan and practice it for day and especially night escapes.
If you are replacing an ionization-type fire alarm, please be careful to recycle it properly. It contains a small amount of radioactive material inside.
Push the “Test” buttons on these alarms every month.

With these preparations, you can go to sleep knowing these alarms are working to potentially save your family’s life.

Buying All-Season and Winter Tires

One week after I started my professional career with GE, one of my new colleagues had his wife die in a one car accident due to worn tires. This has made me ever-vigilant about the tires on my family’s cars.

In the (many) years since, what constitutes a safe tire has changed greatly as has their design and materials. Once upon a time you only had to worry about the tire tread remaining. This is not true today where we know that an old tire, one with more than 6 years since manufacture, is dangerous no matter how much tread is left. Oxidation effects from the ozone in the air can make an old tire less “grippy” and unsafe.

In part as a result of my passion for being a smart consumer in buying the right tires, Consumer Reports (CR) invested significantly in evaluation of tires. Two experts from the tire industry were hired. We reported on tires annually. Tire endurance testing was farmed out to experts in Texas who ran cars day and night to evaluate durability under real conditions. CR used a Vermont ski slope to evaluate their snow traction even if the tire was not specified “Winter.”

And, all the normal tire testing was done to determine handling, wet and dry braking, hydroplaning as well as ride comfort and rolling resistance. Yup, my colleagues at Auto Test in Connecticut have and continue to do a marvelous job in independently assessing tires of all sorts and sizes.

For this article, I will report on the most popular, “All-Season” as well as the timely “Winter” tires. You can see the full CR Ratings at the CR website (ConsumerReports.org) or in the November 2010 magazine at your local library.

All-Season Tires: There were five CR Recommended All Season Tires—Michelin HydroEdge ($116/tire), Continental ProContact Ecoplus ($90), Michelin Energy Saver A/S ($120), Hankook Optimo H727 ($96) and the Goodyear Assurance TripleTred ($121). Based on price and better snow traction, I chose the Hankook tires from a Korean manufacturer for both my All-Wheel-Drive Subaru Forester and Civic Hybrid. For each car, the cost to buy, mount and balance them was close to $500.

I have been quite pleased with these tires. Nonetheless, I noticed quickly that the gas mileage of my hybrid has gone down about 5 mpg as a result of these “stickier” tires. Yet, I feel safer in their handling and it seems worth the tradeoff in gas savings. (By the way, after more than 66,000 miles, my 2006 Civic Hybrid has gotten an average of 44+ miles per gallon.)

I have a concern about the newer tires that purport to be low resistant. The best of them do have less friction with the road and can result in gas savings of about 4%. The experience with my Civic Hybrid is that this type of tire allows the car to slide a bit more than I feel comfortable.

Given what I know now about the 10% loss in gas mileage for my Civic with the Hankook’s and noting that the newly rated Continental ProContact Ecoplus cost about the same, I would probably buy the Continentals the next time around.

There are other brands selling fine All Season tires. Beside Michelin, Hankook and Goodyear, the top ten tires had the brands of Pirelli, Kumho, Maxxis, Toyo and Cooper.

Winter Tires: The CR recommended models are the Michelin X-Ice XI 2 ($106), General Altimax Arctic ($75) and Nokian Hakkapelitta ($164). Farther down the ratings, you may want to look at Bridgestone’s Blizzak WS60 ($98). In the past, I have been pleased with the Blizzak’s on my Forester.
If you are buying a set of new, All-Season tires, you might want to hold off and see if they give you the traction you need for snow before you buy any of these somewhat expensive winter tires.

Tire Tips:

I have used “Tire Rack.com” on the Web to buy from the widest array of tires. They ship to your home or to a service station nearby for mounting and balancing at a nominal charge.
You have heard it before, but it is really important—Check your tire pressure periodically! A low pressure tire can be dangerous, waste gas and wear down your tires prematurely. Be especially mindful when the weather gets colder since your tire pressure will surely decrease as we approach the winter months.
Check your new and old tires for “freshness” dates. Look at the string of numbers following “DOT” on the sidewall. The last four numbers indicate the week and year of manufacture. For example, “0509” means May, 2009. If your current tires are more than 6 years old, consider their replacement no matter how much tread is left. For new tires, they should be manufactured in the last year. Less is better.
Don’t use “Winter Tires” on summer roads. The tread compound for winter tires wear out much quicker on hot roads.

Buying a TV

Thereare two major types of televisions these days—LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) and Plasma. Over 80% of the TV’s bought today are LCD’s. Although there are “plasma-advocates” that may disagree, I believe the best value is now found by buying an LCD TV.

There are several important features to be considered when buying an LCD TV: 1) whether it has “LED (Light Emitting Diodes) backlighting,” distortion with the viewing angle, the refresh rate, whether it is 2- or 3-D and the size of screen.

First, a conventional LCD has a CCFL (Cold-Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) for backlighting. Some newer sets have LED backlighting that replaces the CCFL lamp with LED’s. Potentially, LED backlit sets can offer pictures with more contrast, are slimmer, and consume less energy.

Normally, LCD TV’s with “full-array LED backlights” have the highest price. These sets also include a feature called “local dimming.” In this case, LED’s are spread across the entire back panel and segments can be dimmed behind a dark scene to enhance black levels while remaining bright in other areas. While Consumer Reports (CR) found some of the best black levels with these sets, a less effective implementation can create halos around objects or odd illumination of dark areas.

There are also super-slim LCDs that use a design called "edge LED backlighting.” These sets place LED lights around the perimeter of the panel's frame and use special diffusers to spread light uniformly across the panel. Most sets with edge LED’s don’t offer local dimming and will not show the same improvement in contrast.

Both types of LED backlighting can cut electric bills by a few dollars a month compared with a conventional LCD, but this should not be the reason to buy one with this advanced feature.
For any LCD TV, a potential, major downside is a distorted or low-illumination picture for those sitting off-center from the screen. Before you buy an LCD TV, you might want to do your own viewing test in the store or check out the latest CR Ratings for “Viewing Angle.”

Additionally, an LCD set can blur fast-action scenes. To avoid this, buy one with a “framing rate” of 120 hertz (hz) or faster.

I continue to believe that 3-D TV is a passing fancy at least for those 3-D TV’s where special glasses are required. The sales of 3-D televisions have been slow due to the cost of glasses ($100 each) and the limited 3-D programming.

Screen size is the last of the important decisions you need to make. CR surveys say this is the area of major “buyer remorse.” Buyers had wished they had bought a larger set after they get home. Personally, I would look for a TV with a screen around 46 inches.

Other features to be considered for either an LCD or Plasma set: 1) “1080p” screen resolution and 2) having 3 or 4 HDMI inputs so you can easily connect your set to many HD video sources. (The built-in speakers for many TV’s are only so-so in replicating sound. Consider buying an inexpensive Home Theater stereo system for the best sound.)

Usually your choice of brand to buy depends on the brand’s recent reliability. According to CR, reliability is not an issue except for minor brands like Westinghouse and Mitsubishi. And, remember, good reliability means you can ignore what the salesman says about buying an extended warranty and save money.

New TV models were introduced during the summer and this is a good time to find the largest number of models in the stores. If you can wait, November tends to be the time for the biggest sales.

Generally, sets with “edge” or “full LED” backlighting scored throughout CR’s latest ratings. Thus, it is probably better to save money and get a highly-rated TV without LED backlighting.

Here are the models that fit my feature choice and are CR Best Buys in order of Rating score:

Samsung Model LN46C630 (costing about $990),
JVC Model LT-46P510 ($1,025)
Sharp Model Aquos LC-46D78UN ($1,100).

(For comparison, a Samsung Model UN46C8000 with “edge backlighting and scored the same place as the Best Buy Samsung above, but costs $2,300!)

GM’s Volt Hybrid Car

Well, it will finally happen, March 2011 the new GM Volt “Extended-Range” Hybrid will be going on sale in New York State. The Volt has a small gas engine and a fairly large battery pack.

Its range with its modest gas tank is over 300 miles, but it can only go 25 to 50 miles on electric drive alone before a small gasoline engine starts charging the battery. An on-board charger can be plugged into a wall outlet and recharged from “empty” in about 6 to 8 hours.

Consumer Reports (CR) has test driven a Volt at its track in Connecticut. The comments were generally favorable: “ … it is quiet and the linear power delivery provides good acceleration, but the sedan feels heavy in the corners. It weighs about 3,800 pounds, making it porky for a car of this size.” (Note that CR will not provide a detailed recommendation until it can buy this car anonymously when it goes on sale just like you do.)

While GM claims 230 miles per gallon (mpg) gas consumption, Motor Trend’s experience puts the Volt at 127 mpg.

The price is high at $41,000, but thanks to a $7,500 Federal tax credit, the base price is closer to $33,500. GM expects to sell all 10,000 of the Volts it will produce in 2011 as well as the 45,000 Volts in 2012.

So, why not be the first on your block to buy one? Well, from my point of view, I would not.

Cost is a factor in my decision since you can currently buy a fine hybrid car like the Toyota Prius for about $25,000. This hybrid with a much smaller battery is not intended for going any distance on pure battery power. Thus, its gas mileage is a more modest 50 miles per gallon (mpg).

But, the $8,500 cost difference between the Volt and the Prius is large and it would take many, many years of driving before you would get a pay back through gasoline savings. For instance, using the Motor Trend mpg, if you drove 12,000 miles per year and gas costs $3 per gallon, it would take 20 years to pay the cost difference between the Volt and the Prius even before you paid for your electricity costs to charge the Volt battery. (The Prius’ Federal tax credit has run out years ago.)

And, it is likely at the end of 8 or so years that you will have to replace a very expensive battery pack. (The Volt guarantees its battery for 8 years and 100,000 miles. The Volt’s battery is larger, heavier and more costly than the Prius’.)

Nissan’s “Leaf” model pure Electric Vehicle without a gas engine will be sold in New York State late in 2011. This is a purely battery-powered vehicle will have a range up to 100 miles and a much lower price of about $ 33,000 minus a $7,500 Federal Tax Credit. I will review this car once CR has test driven it.

Sadly, in New York State, hybrid and EV owners can only enjoy unrestricted access to the state's HOV lanes versus any tax credits or rebates as are available in other states.

Jeff’s Buying Advice: If you have to buy a new car, consider the current Toyota Prius. Better yet, hold out until the arrival of the 2012 Toyota Prius Plug-In. This is a hybrid, but with a pure electric mode that goes 10 miles before needing to turn on its small gasoline engine. It seems to be a nice tradeoff in terms of flexible use—no “battery range-anxiety” and the possibility of further decreasing your dependence on gas. Its price has not been set, but there is little doubt it will be higher than the current, non-plug-in, hybrid Prius. Early reports are that the $7,500 Federal tax credit will apply to this Prius Plug-in.

3-D TV without Glasses

As those that read my column knows, I have been dismissive about buying a 3-D TV. While the experience, according to Consumer Reports is worthwhile, there is little current programming that makes 3-D a must-have at this point. This is especially true for those many families who recently bought a large screen TV as the industry converted to a digital HDTV.

The other reason not to buy 3-D is that these current TV’s require special glasses that can cost $100 a pair. While two pairs normally are thrown into the bundled purchase price of a 3-D TV, you would need extras for a larger family or seeing TV with friends. Or, expect a lot of fights.

As a result of these challenges to adopting 3-D, the sales of these sets have been a disappointment to the TV industry. This could change.

A system from Toshiba promises 3-D TV experience without the need for special glasses. While these TV’s will go onto the market late this year, they will be quite small (12 inch) and very expensive ($1,440). Toshiba has shown a large screen, 56 inch 3-D TV without glasses, but they have not indicated an availability date or price.

Not surprisingly, current 3-D TV competitors are saying that it will take many years before these “glass-less” sets can be made at a reasonable price point for the large size TV’s we are now use to.

Jeff’s Buying Advice: Wait before you buy a 3-D TV set. By late next year, we will have a better idea about how much 3-D programming there will be as well as whether 3-D sets without glass will hit the market and be competitively priced any time soon.

A “Verizon” iPhone 4

It seems that since Apple began marketing the iPhone with AT&T as its sole cell service provider, users have wanted to break free and go to Verizon. That is not surprising since Consumer Reports (CR) surveys of its subscribers have shown Verizon to provide far better service throughout the US. AT&T is dead last!

But, these rumors of a Verizon iPhone have been just that. Until now! In early October, Verizon began to publicize that it was going to make its own iPhone 4 available “early next year.”

CR continues to show the Apple iPhone 4 at the top of their AT&T cell phone ratings. But, it is not a “CR Recommended Model” because of a continuing problem with user’s fingers reducing signal levels since the antenna is along the outside of the cell phone.

And, there are now other competing cell phones that come close to the iPhone experience supplied by Verizon. In particular, the Motorola and HTC brand Droid models are getting good buzz. They run on a competitive Android system produced by Google.

For those that cannot wait for the Verizon iPhone 4, I have been pleasantly surprised by my new AT&T iPhone. After 6 months of use, I find it to be a fine cell phone even with the aforementioned, spotty AT&T service. At least now with the iPhone 4, I can reliably get calls to and from home and the speed of communicating with the web is greatly improved over the original iPhone. (My model has a free, Apple-supplied cover that ensures I do not touch the antenna. I have learned to live with this encumbrance.)

If you can wait for the Verizon iPhone 4, then this news of a competitive cell service is worth noting.

It is important to understand that the Verizon iPhone will be different from the AT&T iPhone. AT&T runs on a GSM system and Verizon on CDMA. If you go overseas, GSM is the standard. Thus, a Verizon iPhone will not be compatible overseas although it will be able to connect to the now widely available WiFI network.

And, while many are expecting that dropped calls and signal strength from Verizon will improve over the AT&T, we just do not know for sure. Some believe the problems AT&T faces due to the unexpectedly large number of iPhones may be a forerunner of challenges for Verizon. Verizon may have the same problem as their sales of iPhones surge and users, hungry for downloading videos and movies, stress the Verizon cell service system.

Jeff’s Buying Advice: So, if you are in the market for a new cell phone, especially if you are looking for the iPhone 4, waiting until next year may be a good option. Remember, there will be a 2 year contract when you sign up and you want to get it right. By the way, I bought AT&T’s limited 200 Gigabyte per month data plan and found this to be a savings for my use over the more expensive unlimited plan.

Also, there is talk that it may be cost-effective to get early termination of your AT&T contract to switch to Verizon. (Online auction house, eBay, continues to have good prices for the iPhone 4. But, the price may go down if there is a surge in the supply of iPhones when Verizon enters this market. This is something to monitor if you will be considering this switch in cell providers and you have an iPhone 4 already.)

An App to Die for: For those that already have an iPhone, you might want to download a $2.99 app called “Star Walk.” It shows the stars, planets, etc. specific to where you are pointing the phone in the sky. This is a great learning tool for both kids and adults.

Hot Holiday Gifts

We are almost at the holiday gift giving time of year. (It seems like it comes around every 6 months when you get older!) I have compiled some gift suggestions for the family based on Consumer Reports recommendations as well as my own.

Without further ado, here goes:

Tools for the guy on your list: Take it from me, early this year I bought myself the Porter-Cable Drill and Tool Set (PCL418C-2 at about $270) and it has been great. The cordless drill is particularly powerful, light and long lasting thanks to the use of a lithium-ion battery. (Generally, stay away from tools powered by a NiCad battery since they have been eclipsed in performance by the Lithium cells and are safer to dispose of.) This tool kit comes with a reciprocating saw, light, circular saw plus a charger and two batteries. The circular saw is not that powerful, but for the price, it is handy for the easy, cordless jobs. You can buy the kit at Lowes and it remains a Consumer Reports (CR) Best Buy.

If you want only a cordless drill, another CR Best Buy is the Porter-Cable PC180DK-2 for about $110.

For the gal: How about a new digital camera? These days, they are packing these new cameras with great features at a lower-cost. I personally like the ability to have one that can be put in a shirt pocket and yet gets very good photos in both sunlight and flash. Based on CR Ratings, the Top-Rated and Recommended model is the Nikon Coolpix S8000 for $250. Generally, the user reviews for this model are quite positive and the camera’s 10X zoom makes it a good buy. Down the ratings, but still Recommended is the Canon Powershot SD1400IS for $220.

If you want to treat yourself to a special camera with a large, 26X zoom, try the Nikon Coolpix P100 for $400. This one will not fit into your shirt pocket, but its great photos will be worth the extra heft.

For the Family: Do you get your DVD’s in the mail from Netflix and don’t have ROKU? Then, you are missing something that is both cost-effective and entertaining. You will also need a broadband connection for the Internet. ROKU streams movies to your TV from Netflix as well as other vendors. Those from Netflix are free is you have an “Unlimited Package” that costs as little as $8.99 a month for one DVD mailed at a time. You can buy the ROKU set-top box for as little as $60. There are a wide variety of movies and other programming that you can get at the touch of a button (or two). It is best to have a computer-savvy person assist you for set up. Is your son or daughter around?

For the kids: I have been using noise-cancelling headphones for several years. They keep getting better and lower in price. The Audio-Technica ATH-ANC3 BK ($65) in-ear headphone is a good choice based on CR Ratings and consumer reviews. (This choice differs with CR’s Holiday Recommendations, but I give special credence, especially for a device like this, to the user’s reviews outside of the lab.)

For good teeth: Over the last year I have been using a portable, Panasonic Oral Irrigator Model EW-DJ10 ($30 at Amazon). It is battery operated (two AA cells) and can be taken wherever you go. You will be surprised by how long the batteries last and effective this unit can be. Great for water fights in the summer.

For good meals: A value-priced wine to top off a fine, home-cooked meal is just what you need after a day at work. Some recent CR Recommendations are a Caramenere wine (red), Frontera by Concha y Toro ($5 per 750 ml) and two Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosemount Diamond Label (2006 for $10) and Concha y Toro's Casillero del Diablo Reserve (2007 for $7). Alice White (2008 at $7) and Bogle (2008 at $9) wines are nice Chardonnays. Of course, I have dutifully confirmed each of these recommendations with my own wine tasting.

Giving to others locally: Please give what you can and make this giving truly a “family affair.”

Buying a Car Battery

It is not widely known that car batteries are more prone to fail in hot weather than in cold. That is the reason battery manufacturers have higher performance batteries made especially for the southern regions of the US. After the long hot summer we had, your battery may be ready to fail and may do so now that cold weather is setting in.

This is especially true since today’s cars start with a minimum of cranking and failure can occur unexpectedly. Your mechanic should test your battery and charging system at least every year to make sure you do not have to replace a battery that will always fail at just the wrong time.

When you go out to buy a battery, the first requirement is to find the right style (or Group) among many. Then, the battery must have the right capacity rating (or Cold Cranking Amps, CCA). Finally, the battery must be “fresh” or less than 6 months old since its manufacture. Two or three months is much better.

Based on the November 2010, Consumer Reports (CR) Ratings, my buying advice can be fairly simple with one brand standing out generally as a CR Best Buy for most Groups and CCA ratings. (Unfortunately, this advice will not make my car mechanic happy. To my car mechanic: Hang in there to the end before you fire me.)

For those that like to service their own car, the best battery to buy has the EverStart brand and is found at Walmart. From my experience in just buying their battery, Walmart’s major downside is that it is not the place to find a professional car mechanic or even find the right battery that fits your car.

When I shopped in this area, I found that the Danbury Walmart had a very poor selection. I was forced to go to West Milford, CT where the supply was far better. In both places, the sales personnel could hardly be termed “car battery knowledgeable.” My advice is to call ahead and find out if your battery Group is available.

For those who are not do-it-yourselfers or do not like shopping at Walmart, your buying decision becomes quite murky. Based on CR tests, battery manufacturers have inconsistent performance depending on the battery group you need.

For instance, the battery Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-24 tops battery group “24/24F” with a high price of $115, but the Interstate brand comes in almost dead last in the Group 35 battery ratings. This pattern is all too common in the CR Ratings.

Thus, what could be a fairly simple solution in buying an EverStart battery becomes a real chore to find the right brand for your car. If this is too exasperating, my suggestion is to realize that you buy a car battery every three to five years and its cost is usually about $100 or less. Perhaps, saving $25 or $50 over this time period is just not worth the bother.

So my battery buying advice goes back to an earlier column about finding the right car mechanic. If you found one, let this person make the decision since they are much more equipped to service it and your car in the long term.

CR Testing Tidbit: While I was at CR, we invested heavily in our own state-of-the-art battery testing system. We found that outside, contract labs had conflicts-of-interest in that they were too tightly tied to manufacturers for whom they tested their batteries. Further, we wanted to do testing that stressed the batteries to a greater extent than industry standards. CR found that these standards often did not deal well with real life situations. As a result, we pioneered a special “life” test that measured how well a battery does after repeated charge-and-discharge cycles at high temperatures. CR even adapted and made more stringent the testing and data analysis of the industry’s long time standard “reserve capacity” and “cold-cranking” test regimes.

You can contact Jeff at info@SlightlyCreaky.com.
He welcomes your comments and suggestions for future articles.

Portable Generators Lighting Up the Darkness

There is nothing like having your own portable power generator when the lights go out all around you. The first time this happened to me, it was in the daytime with pleasant weather. But, night time was coming and it was clear we were in for an extended time without electricity even in the Village of Pawling.

Out I went to throw the transfer switch, plug in the generator, and pull the starter cord (twice). It roared into action and we were the only lights among the darkness. What a thrill!

These are several critical issues to consider before your buy:

How many watts do you need?—You should consider the most important household items you need to power: your furnace (500 watts), refrigerator (600 watts), freezer (500 watts) and lights scattered around the house (400 watts). I would also include powering your internet service (100 watts), a computer (200 watts) and even one of the new, large-screen TV’s (300 watts) since their power use is modest and they do allow you to be in touch with the outside in an emergency. Also, remember a water pump if you have a well (400 watts) and a sump pump (600 watts) if your cellar requires one. Surprisingly, the total of this “electricity load” is a relatively modest 3,600 watts.

It is other high power appliances you may consider putting on your wish list that add quickly to your load: air-conditioners (1,000 watts), portable heaters (1,300 watts), electric range (4,500 watts) and electric water heater (3,000 watts). If you are thinking about a washer and dryer during a blackout, think again—even though a washer requires only 400 watts, its companion dryer pulls a whopping 4,800 watts!

Think carefully if you can do without these appliances even if the outage is for days. For instance in a pinch, heating water can be done by a small hot plate (1,000 watts) or a microwave oven (1,500 watts) rather than a large oven/range using up to 4,500 watts. And, instead of portable electric heaters, try using electric blankets or heated mattress covers (100 watts). (Take it from me they can be wonderfully cuddly to wrap yourself in when the rest of the house is cold.)

The best tradeoff is to buy a portable generator with a sustained power of 5 or 6,000 watts and peak power of about 7,000 watts.

How it will start up?—There are two normal ways a portable generator can start: a) by a starter pull cord or b) by a battery-driven starter motor like you have in your car. A starter motor is no longer price-prohibitive, but you will have to keep its battery alive via tickle charging periodically throughout the year in order to know you can start the generator in the worse weather.

What fuel will it use?—Likely, you will only have the option of propane or gasoline as the fuel source. Most gasoline portable generators come with relatively small gas tanks lasting about 8 to 10 hours. Thus, if you have the option for propane or natural gas, I would consider it since it would avoid fuel from running out.

How do I locate it and attach it electrically to my home wiring?—Carefully! These are dangerous devices and improper placement can lead to carbon monoxide inhalation if the exhaust is too close to your living space. Prevent carbon-monoxide poisoning by always running your generator outdoors at least 15 feet away from the house. Never run it in the basement or garage or other enclosed spaces.

Electrically, you need to invest in a good electrician who can supply you with a “transfer switch” and a dedicated, circuit breaker box. Don’t consider any other option since it can be highly dangerous to you and/or your power company’s repair person.

What brand of generator should I buy?—Consumer Reports (CR) last tested portable generators several years ago and most of these units are no longer available. In my opinion, you should look for name brands first and foremost. Based on the last CR report, I would suggest looking for brands like Briggs & Stratton, Troy-Bilt, Craftsman, Coleman or Honda. (Honda has special generator technology called “inverters” and they cost considerably more per watt.)

These generators may be called “portable,” but take it from me, many weigh more than 150 pounds. Thus, one feature that is a must-have (and a salesman may forget to say it) is the generator’s ability to move around. Look for a unit with big, pneumatic tires and a good handle to guide the generator. If possible, buy a unit with 4 tires rather than 2.

Two other features to look for are “Oil guard” that protects the engine from damage by shutting it down if the oil level falls below minimum and a fuel gauge.

How much will all of this cost?—Probably, more than you thought. A starter-driven, 6,000 watt generator should cost less than $1,000. The cost of the electrician plus a new transfer switch and breaker could easily cost another $1,000 to $2,000.

What I can guarantee for your trouble is the pleasure you will have each time you turn this baby on and you are alight in an otherwise sea of darkness.

Some other important tips:

You should do a “dry run” periodically by starting the generator and using the transfer switch.

Make sure you have enough fresh gasoline. You might need plenty of fuel on hand, since filling stations often shut down during blackouts and most home-sized models use 12 to 18 gallons of gasoline per day. (Special tip: I have a way of draining my car’s gas tank in an emergency to power the generator.) Use a gasoline “stabilizer” for the gas in the tank and in the can to avoid problems with start up.

Reduce fire risk by turning off gasoline-powered generators before refueling them and store gasoline in an ANSI-approved container and in a cool, well-ventilated area. Please Note: This ignition danger is very real since you working near a generator that could create a spark from its electrical hook up to your wiring.

Cats and Dogs in Winter

There are many people at this time of year who need to get allergy relief from their pets. Winter is a bad time for pet-borne allergies since the windows are closed and the pets stay inside and sleep like blobs on top of the radiators. (Just like we would like to do, but we have more important things to do like feeding them.)

There are solutions other than taking drugs! You might want to try a combination of an effective humidifier, air purifier (or cleaner) and/or vacuum. To see what models may make sense to buy, I checked with Consumer Reports (CR) latest ratings for each of these appliances.

Humidifiers: You will be surprised how much relief there is in room with a humidity of 60 to 70% in the winter. The air will feel warmer and you will breathe easier. (When the outside temperatures hovers around 20 F, without a humidifier, room air can easily get to less than 20% humidity.

To deal with pet allergens, in order of usefulness and relatively low cost, I would start by getting a humidifier for at least your bedroom. CR just rated humidifiers in their January 2011 issue.

Their Best Buy for a tabletop that can cover a small room is the Safety 1st Ultrasonic 360 for the great price of $30. As with any ultrasonic humidifier, it is best to use water with a minimal amount of dissolved minerals (i.e. not “hard” water) since otherwise very small particles will be spewed into the air. Buying generic “Spring Water” from the supermarket is a good solution especially if you have hard, mineral-laden water coming from your faucets.

If you want a larger, console unit, try the Essick MA1201 ($110) or the Sears Kenmore 15412 ($140). Both are evaporative units and tap water can be used. But, expect that you will need to replace their evaporative pads frequently due to Pawling’s local hard water.

Air Purifiers: While at CR, my normal response to an interview on this subject was that you usually do not need to buy an Air Purifier. But, a person owning pets is pretty much trapped with the allergens in winter months. There are things you can do to mitigate against these buggers if you do it right.

I would go buy an air purifier with a HEPA filter. This filter costs a bit to replace, but if you find the air cleaner to work, then it is really worth it. Do not buy an air purifier that produces ozone.

From recent CR Ratings, my choice and their Best Buy is a room unit, Whirlpool AP51030K ($300) model. This model is particularly effective at the top of the CR Ratings. User reviews are generally very good, but there are some that did not like the noise or the construction.

The best way to operate an air purifier is to use it in your bedroom and keep the door closed. You should keep it on all the time on “High” or “Low” when you are not in the room. If you can stand the noise, operate it on “Low” while you sleep.

Vacuums: It is surprising what a good vacuum can do to filter out allergens from room air. If you need a new one vac, this may be the time to get one that has an effective, High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter. According to CR, the Kenmore (Sears)
Progressive 27514 ($300) canister vacuum, is excellent at picking up pet hair as well as reducing small particle emissions through the use of an effective HEPA filter. Also, the Kenmore Intuition 31100 ($230) upright model is a highly effective CR Best Buy.

Most important is to believe in this appliance technology. If you do, the placebo effect may work as well as the appliances themselves!

Computer “Hibernation” Saves Money

Ever wonder how much power a computer uses and, perhaps, how to save electricity? Here are some quick answers using my trusty Dell laptop as an example.

When in operation, my laptop uses about 32 watts of electricity. (This wattage varies depending on what computations the computer is doing. For instance, downloading a big file from the Internet causes it to use 48 watts.)

When my computer has been idle for awhile and the screensaver comes on, the energy usage remains the same.

The good news is that my laptop is set up to go into “Hibernation” when its lid is closed. (You can do this by going to your computer’s Control Panel settings-- “Power Options” and then “System Settings.” The energy use in this mode falls to only 2 watts. This is the power usage of your computer’s AC/DC adapter.

Hibernation is a neat computer setting. When you open the laptop lid again, the computer automatically restarts and is at the same point where you left it —your programs, the Internet settings and files are still open. So, hibernation saves a lot of energy and money rather than leaving it on in the screensaver mode.

For instance, never shutting off your computer, with or without the screensaver, you would have an energy cost of about $28 a year. This cost drops to a much more modest $6 if you use this computer 4 hours and go into hibernation 20 hours a day. In the best case, by using it 4 hours and unplugging the computer’s adapter for 20 hours while in hibernation would cost less than $5 per year.

And, if you have a Desktop rather than a Laptop you can save even more. A Desktop plus its monitor can easily use 150 watts when operating. If never shut off, there is an energy cost of a whooping $130 annually! For some of the older desktops this number can climb to 300 watts! Fortunately, for those with an Apple iMac, this desktop uses about 100 watts.

While you are at it, think about all those AC/DC power converters you have around the house--phone, cable modem, Internet Router, etc.—using power even when the electronic device is not in operation. When you go on vacation, you might think about unplugging them and some appliances not only to save a little electricity, but also to prevent a lightning strike from ruining your TV, computers other critical, household electronics.

The Verizon iPhone is Borne!

Well, it is almost here, an iPhone supported by the carrier Verizon. Why should you care?

According to Consumer Reports’ (CR) surveys of cell phone service providers going back a long time, Verizon is the far preferred carrier by nationwide. In this area, from my own experience, I would certainly concur.

My love affair with the Apple iPhone has been marred with the conflict that since its introduction in June 2007, it has only been available with AT&T, a service provider at the bottom of CR’s Ratings. But, as you have heard in my column last year, there were rumors all of this would change with the Verizon iPhone becoming available in 2011.

The good news, the Verizon iPhone will be available for pre-order beginning on February 3 and in stores on February 10 at $199 for the basic phone. But, nothing is simple and I will try to fill you in on some of the “fine print” issues.

First, these iPhones from different service providers will be different. AT&T uses the GSM cell phone system that is the globally accepted standard. Verizon is much more limited globally since it uses a CDMA system. Thus, if you are a globe-trotter, you may find the Verizon system to be more of a problem to use overseas. (Nonetheless, you will always have the fallback of WiFi service that has become ubiquitous globally.)

Since these are different phones, at this point, we do not know if the Verizon iPhone is going to work well. I expect to get word from CR, but, by their business policy, they must wait to evaluate their test sample until they can buy one the way you do at retail. Further, there is always the question whether Verizon’s cellular system will stand up to the new burden placed on it by the expected onslaught of new iPhone users? (AT&T has admitted that the unexpected popularity of the iPhone had made their service deteriorate.)

But, what happened if you got a Verizon phone for the holidays and want to switch to the iPhone? Verizon is saying, it is their normal policy to allow you to return any cell phone they sell within a period of 30 days. Thus, if the cell phone is returned in “new” condition by January 15, you can terminate your contract without penalty. (Normally for Verizon, the cancellation penalty is $350 minus $10 for each month since your plan started.)

How about the person who has an AT&T iPhone and wants to change to Verizon? Good luck! Here the only option is to pay AT&T a penalty of $325 minus $10 per month since you started your contract. But, there are a few caveats. One is that you may be able to sell your AT&T iPhone on eBay for a price that could go a long way for paying your AT&T penalty.

The other is that the iPhone once removed from cell service makes a really fine iTouch which is everything an iPhone is, but without cell service. Your WiFi capability remains and you have access to all of the “apps” (or Applications) you had previously bought. Also, it can use it as an iPod to play and record music.

Bottom Line: There are some who will rush out to buy the Verizon iPhone immediately. Personally, I do not blame them, but think the “wait-and-see approach” may be best. At least two major issues remain:

1) It is not clear what the Verizon service plans will be and what they will cost. Further, it is likely that AT&T will not sit by and not make a competitive bid to retain and get new iPhone customers. (The iPhone accounts for 30% of AT&T sales.)

2) Early testing will hopefully confirm that the new, Verizon iPhone performs well. But, we do not know this yet. (Remember the recent antenna problems with AT&T’s iPhone 4. This iPhone 4 problem persists and, as a result, CR continues not to recommend the iPhone. I have found that using a free, Apple-supplied phone case solves the antenna problem.)

Finally, the cell phone marketplace is filled with really great smartphones these days. Verizon already supplies phones that have been highly rated by CR. So, even though I am a strong iPhone supporter, you might consider these current, CR Recommended Verizon cell phones: Motorola’s models Driod “X” and “2,” Samsung Fascinate, HTC Droid Incredible and the LG Ally.

Mallomars as One of Life’s Metaphors

Mallomars

For those that have not had the opportunity to savor these circular-shaped cookies called Mallomars, here is a brief, mouth-watering description. Mallomars have a puffed, marshmallow center with a graham cracker cookie bottom, all covered—bottom too—with rich, dark, semi-sweet chocolate. Chocolate that melts in your mouth without the waxy-mouth feel.

This cookie goes back to when I was a kid at least a few decades ago. There is something special about these cookies that is … well … like a metaphor for life.

Mallomars were introduced in 1913 and are now produced seasonally in Toronto, Canada by Nabisco. With all of that luscious chocolate, you can imagine the problems created from shipping them in warm, summer weather.

To deal with this, each year in late-September, Mallomars make their arrival back to store shelves after a summer’s absence. Major markdown sales celebrate their arrival where a box normally selling for $4.99 can be bought for $1.99. Hannaford’s seems to have the best price at $3.99 a package.

Mallomar-lovers—70% of them from the New York metropolitan area—see this change of seasons in much the way those who go to Vermont to see the leaves turn color in the Fall. We begin to see how the much beloved Mallomar becomes a metaphor for our lives.

Seasons according to the Mallomar: The Mallomar as one of life’s metaphors surely starts with the succession of seasons. From the first store delivery (birth?), through its sweet indulgence until May and then followed by its disappearance (death?) from store shelves for another summer. According to Wikipedia, devoted eaters have been known to stock up during winter months and keep them refrigerated over the summer. This is not for me since change brings a fresh zest for life.

Peeling the Mallomar: I remember as a kid breaking the chocolate around the marshmallow and eating it one chip at a time. I enjoyed this extended “chocolate-high” as I methodically disrobed the marshmallow. What a ballet of wonderful tastes endured over a long time. The patience of a child.

A Cracked Mallomar: There was nothing worse than having a Mallomar’s chocolate covering cracked inadvertently. The marshmallow quickly hardens and grows stale. Nabisco came up with special packaging that prevents this problem, but it has also made the packaging environmentally unfriendly. As a consumer advocate I cringe about the packaging, but am happy to eat them … un-cracked.

Mallomar Scarity: Mallomars are a regional dessert found mostly in the Northeast. The fact that they are also seasonal, makes their scarcity of even greater concern. But, life tells us that for some things, it should be that way. It makes you appreciate having them more. (Decades ago, Coors beer was limited to Colorado and people flew there to bring the brew back. Now, this brand is ubiquitous and few would think of even a special car ride to the market. It is the same product, but too plentiful.)

Becoming an Adult Mallomar-Eater: As a kid, you are told how many cookies you could eat. For me, it was only two. I remember well the first time I chose having three at a sitting. I was home from college and this was one way I started seeing myself as an adult. How many cookies did you get as a kid? How many do you eat today?

Mallomars in a fragile, changing world: Once I remember going to the store in the fall and with great ceremony, I proceeded to have my first taste of the season. Sadly, I found that they had changed the chocolate recipe. Sadness turned to outrage and I wrote to the company. I do not remember getting a response, but I do know the next season, the chocolate was back to its yummy consistency. Moral: Like life, you never know when your Mallomar may change.

Mallomars as a throwback to childhood: During our life, we remember special scents, tastes, sights that are wired into us when we were young. Just the sight or taste of a Mallomar brings back places where I think I ate them. Like our summer home in New Jersey. It reminds me about once being a kid and makes me one all over again.

If this does not make the “kid-in-you” want to go out and buy this yellow box of Mallomar cookies, then your “child” needs some help. Get a friend to buy you some as soon as practical. Great with coffee or milk. Bon appétit!

Chocolates for the One You Love

This is the time of year, Valentine’s Day, that many associate with buying gift chocolates for their sweethearts.

Years ago, Consumer Reports (CR) starting testing gift chocolates and found the article’s readership to be especially high. So in the CR February issue, once again I can tell you what models their sensory experts have top rated. Two CR, in-house sensory experts evaluated the chocolates in blind testing.

It is sadly true that high-quality gift chocolates have 200 calories—8 to 18 grams from fat—for each 1.4 ounce serving. But on the upside, a Swedish study suggests that dark chocolate in moderation may reduce heart problems.

The best assortments were fresh and smooth with even-melting chocolate. There were hints of real cream, butter, and vanilla, and pieces that contained fruit or herbal flavors that tasted like the real thing. Those that were down-rated were gritty or fatty in texture, had artificial flavor, staleness and a taste that was more sweet than flavorful.

Gift chocolates usually do not have preservatives and, thus, their shelf life when they have the best flavor is limited. The models highlighted below show the manufacturer’s claimed shelf life of between 10 to 35 days. It is best to keep the chocolates in areas where the temperature range is between 60 and 70 degrees. Solid chocolate lasts longest, cream-filled ones less long.

Based on CR Ratings, generally you pay for what you get. Those models rated Excellent and were CR Best Buys included:

Candinas 36-piece box ($2.56/oz) is made up of dark and milk chocolates with hazelnut, caramel, and liqueur-flavored centers. Claimed shelf life is only 10 days.

Jacques Torres Jacques' Choice ($3.00/oz) consists of small portions of milk, dark, and white chocolates with fillings of tropical fruit, key lime, caramel, coffee, nut butter and chili pepper. Claimed shelf life is 3 to 4 weeks.

Those models rated Very Good and were CR Best Buys included:

Godiva New 36-piece Gold Ballotin ($2.49/oz) was found to be quite sweet overall and included large-sized dark, milk, and some white chocolates with traditional fillings. Claimed shelf life is 2 to 3 weeks.

Leonidas Chocolate General Assortment ($1.88/oz) showed some variations in quality piece-to-piece and included milk, dark and white chocolates with many hazelnut combinations and liqueur flavors. Claimed shelf life is 2 to 3 weeks.

See's Famous Old-Time Assorted($0.88/oz) had some pieces more sweet than flavorful that included milk and dark chocolates with fresh, crunchy nut pieces and well-blended toffees and caramels. Claimed shelf life is 35 days.

And, this gift can become a “test of love” for the receiver as well. Will there be any leftovers for the giver!

CR Testing Tidbit: It turns out that chocolate is one of the most difficult “foods” the CR in-house, sensory experts evaluate. While only a little is actually eaten—most is spit out—sensory experts find that they can only test a small number of samples at each session. A sensory expert must evaluate chocolates of a myriad of different fillings as well as the chocolate. Additionally, multiple samples were tested to make sure a bad batch had not been bought. Considering that this is blind-testing with 4 to 6 samples of the same chocolate tested randomly throughout multiple sessions, you can imagine that this testing lasts a long time and waist lines may increase noticeably.

Buying Your Next Set of Pots and Pans

A short article in Consumer Reports (CR) January 2011 issue caught my eye recently. They had just tested one of the more difficult products—pots and pans. Their recommended sets consisted of between 5 to 11 pieces with quite a range in prices from $18 to $54 per piece. (Reminder, manufacturers count a cover or lid as a “piece.”)

And, there was a clear winner at the top of the ratings as a CR Best Buy. It is the non-stick, “Earth Pan with Sand Flow.” This is a ten-piece set priced at a very reasonable $190 and is dishwasher safe. (The Earth Pan has four covers plus two skillets, one sauté pan, one stockpot and two saucepans.) It is advertised on J.C. Penney’s website at $179.

There was another good buy you might want to consider as well. The “Emerilware Hard-Anodized” made by All-Clad cost $200 for 10 pieces (including four lids).

Price does not necessarily dictate performance or value. CR found that the Certified Master Chef’s series developed by the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, to be the worst performer of the 13 uncoated sets they tested. And, the price for this set, the Master Collection Cookware, was $550!

In the past, there have been concerns about non-stick coatings disintegrating under high heat causing a harmful PFOA compound to get into the air. During my watch at CR, our testing showed that PFOA out-gassing was not a problem. (The Earth Pan avoids this issue since PFOA is not used in its manufacture.)

Nonetheless, if you have old, non-stick pots and pans showing wear, this might be a good time to replace them.

Before you go out to buy pots and pans, you need to consider the type of cooktop you have. Flat-bottomed pans are essential for a smoothtop range. If you have an induction cooktop, magnetic stainless steel is your best bet and neither the Earth Pan nor the Emerilware sets are suitable choices.

CR makes a good point that you may want to go to the store to buy pots and pans. By handling the cookware you will find out if it is too heavy or whether the handle is easy to grasp. The balance of a pot or pan is also a subjective and important concern.

If it has been years since buying your last set of pots and pans, you will be amazed how well your new cookware performs during cooking and cleans up after use. Bon appetite!

See the Light and Save Big with CFL’s

As you have probably noticed, even light bulbs have become high tech.

The old incandescent bulb has been going out of favor over this last decade as we look for ways to save energy. And, the Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFL’s) have certainly proven themselves in saving energy and lasting longer.

By 2012, the 100 watt incandescent will be phased out. Then by 2014, the 60 and 40 watt’ers will be gone as well.

More recently, the price of a CFL has fallen sharply and their payback over an incandescent bulb is now on the order of months, not years. Considering that a CFL lasts up to 10 times longer than an incandescent, their purchase should seem obvious.

Yet, many people I talk with still have questions about buying a CFL. Do they really save money? Are there dangers in their use? Can they be used everywhere? Are there better CFL brands? What is the next, great bulb? Here are some of the answers.

CFL Savings: Let’s assume the bulb is on six hours per day. In Pawling, we pay about $0.11/kilowatt-hour to NYSEG for electricity. While a 60 watt incandescent bulb only costs about 25 cents, under these assumptions its energy use is $14.45 per year.

A CFL of comparable light intensity (or lumens) uses only 14 watts--a 77% saving over the incandescent wattage. While the price of a CFL is about $1.50, its energy cost is only $3.37 per year to operate. That is a payback in about four months when you replace an incandescent bulb with a CFL!

To make the deal sweeter, CFL’s last much longer. While the 60 watt incandescent will last about 1000 hours, manufacturers claim their CFL’s will last up to 10,000 hours. (Consumer Reports (CR) is still testing CFL’s after 6000+ hours.) This long life makes CFL’s especially useful as a replacement for those incandescent bulbs that seem just out of reach.

CFL Concerns: CFL’s does have two downsides. They are slow to come to their full brightness, especially when cold. We are talking about 3 minutes or more in the cold winter, so do not hold your breath. Even for a cold basement, you might not want to use a CFL to light your way down the basement stairs.

There is also a concern about small amounts (5 milligrams) of toxic mercury inside the bulb. If it breaks, you should not panic. Just open the windows and leave the room for at least 15 minutes. You can get cleanup tips at: www.epa.gov/cfl/cflcleanup.html. I recycle (at Home Depot, Lowes, Radio Shack, etc.) my worn out CFL’s rather than throw them in the garbage.

One other issue that I recently read about is that CFL’s are taking away American jobs since they are not made in the USA. Like many products, CFL’s are made overseas. But, the important flipside is that the use of CFL’s has made the USA less dependent on foreign oil.

Models to Buy: ConsumerReports reported recently on their CFL testing. They recommended three models for household fixtures: Ecosmart (Home Depot), Phillips Energy Saver, and the Feit Ecobulb.

Types to Buy: Shape can be a factor in choosing your CFL. CFL’s now come in all shapes and sizes with different bases to fit most fixtures. Before you leave home, look carefully at where the CFL is going to see if there are special issues.

Additionally, there is the color of the light. An incandescent gives off a “soft-white” (or a “color temperature” of 2700 K). Whiter light has color temperatures of over 3000 K with simulated sunlight at over 5000 K. Choose the right color and the minimum wattage bulb that meets your need.

You may be tempted to buy a “Dimmable” CFL that can be used with a dimmer switch. My suggestion is not to buy them. In my experience, they cost much more ($17 for a 60 watt bulb) and last a shorter time than a conventional CFL. Also, the additional energy savings for a dimmable CFL is small and not likely to pay back its higher purchase price.

What is next? The Light Emitting Diode (or LED) is fast on-the-heels of the CFL. You see them everywhere in low-cost flashlights. But for a 60 watt equivalent LED bulb, their initial cost is still quite high ($60!). And, their energy savings is only a little better than a CFL. These bulbs are made up with an array of LED’s and you may find their light difficult to use for normal tasks like reading.

LED bulb do have several advantages and I expect their price will become more reasonable over the next several years. Unlike CFL’s, they are at full brightness immediately even in the cold. They do not contain mercury and their lifetime should far exceed even CFL’s.

As I said, even your light bulb will not allow you to hide from high technology advances.

Low Flow Toilets Save Water One Flush at a Time

We are indeed fortunate to live in the US where clean, potable water is so plentiful. But locally from time-to-time, we see a drought or a broken pipe that shuts down this supply of clean water.

(Much of the rest of the world remains in dire circumstances where more than 1 billion of the world’s 6.4 billion population do not have access to clean water.)

So using our water resources wisely ensures its sustainability as well as saving us money. For some, we pay for the use of water in two ways—as measured by its direct consumption and then again where the water used determines our sewer bill.

According to the United States Geological Survey, each person uses approximately 80 to 100 gallons of water at home per day. Surprisingly, the largest use of household water goes to flush the toilet. On average, individuals flush toilets 5 times per day and this can add up to over 25% of your total water total water use.

Incredibly before 1950, toilets used 7+ gallons per flush. Regulations reduced this in 1980 to 3.5 and, then again to the current 1.6 gallons or less. You can check to see how much your toilet uses by lifting off the toilet tank and checking its GPF (gallons per flush).

But, buying a new, low flow toilet is not easy. They come in, pardon the terminology, two “flavors”-- “Gravity-flush” or “Pressure-assisted.”

To make it more complicated, you can find a gravity or pressure model as either a “single-” and “dual-” flush type. “Dual-flush” types can select a “full” flush when there are solid wastes present. But, where there are only “liquid” wastes, the “dual” model also has a lower flow, flush selection. In Consumer Report’s (CR) testing, the dual-flush toilets tended to be more expensive and not as good in eliminating “liquid” wastes as well as the single flush models. Thus, I will focus on “single-flush” models only.

Gravity-flush toilets, are simpler, less noisy and less costly. They also were at the top of the CR’s Ratings. The Gerber Avalanche 21-817 for $300 was a Best Buy. Others, the American Standard Champion 4 2002.014 ($425) and Kohler’s Complete Solution Cimarron K-11456 ($350) are also high ranked gravity models. A CR recommended pressure model, the Gerber Ultra Flush 21-302 ($300) is one you may also want to consider.

Also another Best Buy, Kohler's new Cimarron K-3609 gravity model ($300), sailed through the tough solid and liquid waste tests nearly as well as two pricier models from the same brand. Yet, it used only 1.28-gallons. Gerber's pressure-assisted, 1.1-gallon Ultra Flush 1.1 EF-21-318 ($400) saves even more for the same price as many 1.6-gallon flush models.

Designing a toilet is a very scientific enterprise as seen from CR’s testing results. A high-priced toilet does not necessarily buy a model that will get the wastes down in the first flush. And, some tend to clog due to the lower, water flow rates.

CR Testing Tidbit: Except to say that it was not a smelly solution, I will leave it to your imagination how CR simulated the “solid wastes” to evaluate a toilet’s performance.

Two other tips:

Showers account for two-thirds of your water heating costs. You can save a lot of money by taking shorter showers as well as using water-saving showerheads. Unfortunately, many low-flow showerheads often feel cold and are water-sparse. Try this inexpensive one we have been using for two years now as a result of Consumer Reports testing: American Standard Easy Clean Showerhead (8888.075.002) for less than $20. It can be found on line at Amazon or Home Depot. And, even with the hard water that our home town has to offer, this showerhead really does self-clean easily!

Be careful how you modify a low flush toilet to save even more water per flush. For instance, there are “dual-flush” add-ons for single flush toilets. These add-ons are relatively inexpensive ($25), but they may require more than one flush even for “liquid” wastes.

The Smart Consumer

Be sure to check back frequently for Jeff's Smart Consumer articles.

Starting March, 2011, Jeff Asher's articles will be posted on another page.
This page will remain as an archive.

Jeff Asher worked at Consumer Reports for more than 21 years. When he retired, he was Vice-President and Technical Director overseeing all product testing, including cars. In the same way when he worked for CR, his reports for Slightly Creaky are independent of any commercial interests. He receives no free samples or any remuneration from manufacturers. Never has, never will! These recommendations are Jeff Asher’s alone and do not reflect the views of Consumer Reports. Bon shopping!

You can contact Jeff at info@SlightlyCreaky.com.
He welcomes your comments and suggestions for future articles.

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